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Most of the time, your table saw works very well. You’re happy with its performance, and you can see yourself using it for many years. But no power tool is perfect, and there are some sections of your table saw that inevitably need to be replaced. Or you might even want to add some table saw accessories to improve its performance.
If that’s the case, then check out our table saw accessories reviews below. We’ve curated some of the best table saw accessories you can purchase online — from the best table saw sleds to the most accurate table saw miter gauges — so you can get started with your new project.
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- Premium Woodworking Tools: Kreg Featherboard applies perfect pressure to ensure safety and perfect cuts
- Perfectly Applies Pressure: Saw featherboard has carefully designed fingers to provide consistent, desirable pressure
- Durable Plastic Polymer Material: Hardy composite featherboard body works with a router table, table saw, miter-slot, or T-slot
- Versatile Wedge-Lock System: The Wedge-Lock System allows the featherboard to attach to tools without extra hardware
- Premium Kreg Tools: We offer products that help woodworkers close the gap between idea and outcome
- Protect hands and prevent kickback like never before
- Powerful high-friction durable grip for extreme hold
- Precision cutting and control down to 1/4" Ripping
- Fully adjustable for easy handling
- Work with small stock safely on the table saw, Router table, Jointer, & Band saw
- THE ORIGINAL DUBBY SLED From standard 4 sided panel cutting to the absolutely stunning heptagon frame you will be completely accurate with the angles on your mitered projects with the Dubby Sled. The Dubby will allow you to make perfect cuts the first time you do them and keep your creative juices flowing with idea after idea. It is ideal for making frames but it also works very well for the cutting of tiny pieces while keeping your fingers out of harms way.
- WORKING WITH LARGE PANELS The Dubby has the capacity to crosscut panels up to 24″ wide x 52″ long, and allows you to do them safely. Since the panels don’t make contact with the table saw top, “walking” of the material is virtually eliminated. This will allow you to cut perfectly square panels for your furniture and cabinet making projects quickly, easily and accurately.
- WORKING WITH ANGLES The Dubby angle scale is the simplest, most accurate and easiest to read scale available. Being about 15-20 times more accurate than the average miter gauge, the scale has pre-determined lines for any shape (from 4 to 16 sides) you want to cut. This means no calculations, no hassles, and best of all, no test cuts for perfect results
- WORKING WITH SMALL PIECES- No miter gauge on the market can offer you the margin of safety provided by the Dubby Sled. The versatile hold-down clamp included with every Dubby will give you an extremely safe way to cut small pieces, and will easily pivot out of the way when you don’t need it. With 35lbs. of hold down pressure, the clamp will hold small pieces all the while keeping your hands and fingers out of harms way.
- WILL THE DUBBY FIT YOUR SAW? The Dubby sled is compatible with most cabinet and contractor table saws. However, your table saw should fall within the following specs for a proper fit. The Miter Slot should be a ¾” wide x 3/8” deep slot. Your saw must measure at least 27” from the front of the saw to the back. The miter slot must be 4” to 5 ¾” from the installed table saw blade. PLEASE NOTE: that the Dubby WILL NOT work on most JOBSITE style table saws. Please measure your saw before ordering.
- Dock & Lock the included INCRA Miter Gauge in Seconds
- Removable t-slot retaining clips & adjustable miter bar
- GlideLOCK Miter Bar - The Miter 1000SE's 6 expansion disks adjust both sides of the bar for ZERO side play, anti-friction travel on all table saws with standard miter gauge channels
- Special Edition Telescoping INCRA-LOCK Fence
- Special Edition 1/10th° Vernier Cursor
- Sled base and fence provide zero-clearance support—just run it through your saw to locate the kerf
- Sled rides in miter track of your table saw—included miter slot stop limits forward travel of sled
- Rear-mounted blade guard is adjustable to fit most table saws
- Aluminum T-track on top edge of fence lets you add a flip stop (not included) for repeatable cuts
- Short T-track parallel to blade accepts an optional T-track hold-down clamp (sold separately)
- Premium Home Improvement Tools: This miter saw table gauge helps you make accurate and repeatable angled cuts
- Versatile Woodworking Tool: Saw accessory has a brass pin that lets you make quick changes between stop angles
- Accurate Measuring Tool: Miter saw guide has 5 positive stops; vernier scale aids adjustments to 1/10 of a degree
- Secure Workshop Accessories: Swing stop lets you switch boards quickly without losing measurements on miter gauge
- Kreg Tools: We offer products that help woodworkers close the gap between idea and outcome
- 3-in-1 roller stand with 150-pound capacity
- Supports and moves heavy material in multiple directions
- Capped feet and tubes offer stability
- Folds up for easy storage and transport
- Height adjusts from 28 inches to 45 inches
- Table measures 27-Inch by 44-Inch
- 2 Legs and Hardware Included
- Provides extra surface support
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- Magwitch Universal Feather board : Works On Both Sides Of The Blade, And Even The Fence
- Low profile and double sided, this is the ultimate feather board from Magwitch
- Works to improve your cutting results on either side of the blade
- The most versatile featherboard ever. Use on any table or fence - no miter slot limitation.
- Features two on/off Magswitches, each with 95lbs of hold force.
If you think that table saws are boring because they can only do simple rip cuts, then think again. Apart from rip cuts, stationary and portable table saws can also do crosscuts. You can set it at a specific angle, so you can produce beveled and miter cuts. Many woodworkers can even produce dado joints and rabbets using an ordinary table saw.
Before we dive into the basics of using this powerful tool, let’s check out how you can use it safely. But if you consider yourself an experienced woodworker, then it never hurts to refresh your knowledge now and then.
- Always wear ear protection and safety glasses or face shields when cutting workpieces on a table saw.
- Do not wear long-sleeved shirts when using a table saw. If you must wear long-sleeved shirts, roll the sleeves up to your elbows to prevent the fabric from getting caught by the blade.
- Choose the right blade for your application. Use a ripping blade for rip cuts, and a crosscut blade to make crosscuts. Always use a clean and sharp blade so you don’t have to apply excessive pressure to the workpiece.
- Your table saw’s blade guard and riving knife are there for a reason. Blade guards protect your fingers from coming into contact with the blade, and both accessories help reduce kickbacks. Never remove the saw’s blade guard or riving knife unless you’re an experienced woodworker and you have a valid reason to do so.
- Make sure that the rip fence is locked firmly in place before using the table saw.
- Always have an outfeed table or rolling stand at the back of the table saw. Moreover, attaching an extension table at each side of the saw can make cutting heavier and more cumbersome workpieces easier.
- Protect your fingers by using a push stick when propelling a material less than 3 inches wide to the blade. Use push pads, push blocks, and table saw sleds to make your job easier and safer.
- Kickbacks are bound to happen even if you are careful in using your table saw, so never stand directly behind your workpiece. Protect your face and your body from kickbacks by standing a little bit to the side of the blade.
- Turn off the table saw and ensure that the blade has come to a full stop before you leave the workshop to do something else.
- Disconnect the saw from the outlet when changing the blades or when swapping the blade guard for a riving knife.
- Do not attempt to reach over or around the blade to catch or move a workpiece while the blade is still moving.
How to Use a Table Saw
Ripping is the most common cut you can produce on a table saw, and this cut is done parallel to the wood’s grain. To produce a rip cut, prep your table saw first by adjusting the height of the blade to the height of your material. Make sure that the blade is a bit higher (around 1/4″) than the workpiece.
Adjust the rip fence to your desired cutting width and lock the fence in place. Measure your cut using a ruler or a tape measure, and mark your material. Line up the material with the fence, and turn the saw on. Wait for several seconds before cutting your workpiece.
Slowly guide the material along the saw’s fence using both hands. Use a push stick near the end of the cut to protect your fingers. Turn the machine off before reaching over to retrieve the workpieces.
Crosscuts are cuts made across the wood’s grain. Making a crosscut is almost like making a rip cut, but with a few modifications. First, remove the rip blade from the arbor, and replace it with a crosscut blade. Adjust the height of the blade to make sure that it is at least 1/4″ higher than the material you’re cutting. Measure the cut using a ruler or a tape measure, and mark your material.
Set the protractor guide to O° to produce straight crosscuts. You can also adjust the blade if you want to make angled cuts. Position the workpiece along the front of the saw’s miter gauge. You can also use a sacrificial fence or a table saw sled if you have one. Gently guide the workpiece and the miter gauge through the blade. Turn the machine off before reaching over to retrieve the material.
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